Prep your tools. Use a large nonstick skillet with a lid. Wipe it lightly with oil, then remove excess with a paper towel. Set heat to low to pre-warm while you make the batter.

Separate the eggs. Place yolks in one bowl and whites in a clean, grease-free mixing bowl. Any grease will deflate the meringue, so make sure the bowl and whisk are spotless.

Make the yolk batter. Whisk yolks, milk, and vanilla until smooth. Sift in flour, baking powder, a pinch of salt, and 1 tablespoon sugar. Mix just until combined; don’t overwork.

Whip the meringue. Beat egg whites on medium until foamy. Add cream of tartar. Gradually sprinkle in the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, beating to glossy medium-stiff peaks. The tip should stand and curl slightly.

Fold gently. Add one-third of the meringue to the yolk batter and fold to lighten. Add the rest in two additions, using a spatula to lift and turn. Keep as much air as possible.

Portion the batter. Keep heat on low. Spoon three mounds of batter into the skillet, spacing them out. Pile the batter high rather than wide.

Add steam and cover. Drip about 1 tablespoon water into an empty area of the pan (not on the batter). Cover immediately to trap steam.

Cook low and slow. After 2 minutes, add a little more batter on top of each mound to boost height. Cover again and cook for another 3–4 minutes, until bottoms are golden and sides look set.

Flip carefully. Use two spatulas to gently flip each pancake. If they resist, cook another minute before trying. Add a splash of water again, cover, and cook 3–4 minutes more.

Check doneness. Pancakes should spring back when pressed and feel set but soft. If wobbly-wet, cover and give them another 1–2 minutes on very low heat.

Serve immediately. Dust with powdered sugar and add your favorite toppings. These are best enjoyed right away while still warm and jiggly.